HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN
Setup the Motherboard
Last updated: 4/8/99
Ideally, you should wear a grounded anti-static wrist
strap when working on computer equipment, especially when handling memory
and CPUs. Also, the use of grounded anti-static mats on the floor
and on the workbench is a good practice. However, these items can
be too expensive if you are building just one computer. As a minimum,
my advise is to make sure your body is touching the metal on the computer
case when handling the CPU and the memory anytime between the time they
are in their anti-static bag or container and installed on the motherboard
and any time when directly touching them. It would also be a good
idea to work with bare feet during this critical time. Try to avoid
touching drives, boards, memory, etc. with your clothes. Clothing
can quite often be charged with static electricity, especially during
cold, dry Winter days.
Many people don't realize that computer components
can be damaged by static electricity and a problem won't appear for months
later when a power surge, etc. completes the damage. With the non-parity
memory used in most recent computers, a damaged transistor in a memory
chip can start corrupting files and you will not be alerted by an error
message and not know about it until you see widespread results much later.
the motherboard from its box and take it out of the antistatic bag. There
is a thick plastic sheet under the motherboard. Keep it there for now
to protect the bottom of the motherboard. Place the antistatic bag
on the workbench. Place the motherboard, together with the plastic
sheet, on top of the anti-static bag.
the cardboard packing from the CPU box and put the power cord and the HX45
assembly instructions in the box.
the lever on lower side of the CPU socket (socket 7) to the fully vertical
the CPU for bent pins.
If they are badly bent, send the CPU back to from
wince it came. Occasionally I get one with some pins slightly bent. I
use a round, bench-mounted fluorescent light with an adjustable arm and
a magnifying glass in the middle of the fixture, to inspect and
work on CPU's. You can look down rows of pins and diagonally from
the edge of the CPU at groups of pins to see which pins do not line-up. I
use a small pair of needle nose pliers to very carefully straighten them. This
can be tedious and time consuming work, requiring an environment where
absolute concentration is possible. If you break a pin, as it's
easy enough to do, you can kiss-off the CPU and its warranty. I
straighten pins by grasping approximately the top 25% of the pin and
bending it ever so slightly. Don't try to bend a pin at its base
or you will probably break it. Again, be very gentle.
from the top, orient the CPU so knocked-off corner is at the lower left and
carefully insert it into the socket. Look around the edges of
the CPU and make sure it is all the way in the socket.
One corner of the CPU is knocked-off and has a small
square printed on the top of it. Also, one corner of the CPU socket
("Socket 7") does not have holes at the tip of the lower left
corner in the above picture. Never force a CPU into its socket. You
may gently wiggle it a little from side-to-side to get into the socket,
but if you force it you can bend pins. If you force it a lot, the
pins will get hot and may melt the solder holding them to the CPU--believe
it. If you can't easily get the CPU into the socket, go back two
the CPU lever making sure it snaps into the locked position: all the way
memory module has two notch in the middle and another one near it's sides. Orient
the module so the notch is on the left side. Hold the memory module
with both hands and evenly and firmly insert it into the DIMM socket labeled "DIMM1." make
sure it is fully seated. The leavers at the ends of the socket will
come up when the module is inserted.
jumpers on the motherboard as follows:
||Keyboard power on
the jumper settings.
CPU socket has two ears each on the left and right sides of the socket for
attaching CPU fans. Our fan attaches to the smaller ears located at
the middle of the sides. The ear on the left side is smaller than the
one on the right side. The CPU has a metal clip which attaches to the
ears. Attach the smaller end of the CPU clip to the smaller ear on
the left side of the socket. Then attach the larger and adjustable
clip to the larger ear on the right side of the socket. Wiggle the
heat sink/fan to center it on the CPU.
I do not use heat sink cement install CPU fans. The
fans I use have a thermo-conductive layer on the bottom of the heat sink. Fans
that are installed with thermo-conductive cement can be very difficult
to remove and replace. And that is why I do not use the retail versions
AMD CPU's which come with the fans glued on to stay on forever.
The CPU fan has three wires. Two are for power
and third one is used by the motherboard to sense fan speed and may be
used by system monitoring software to sound an alarm if the fan fails. That
is why you should use a 3-wire fan that connects to the motherboard instead
of a fan which connects to one of the power-supply connectors.
the CPU fan into the motherboard connector on the right side of the motherboard
labeled "CPU FAN."
coil-up the excess CPU fan wire and zip-tie it to keep the wire out of the
CPU fan. It is easier to do this now while the motherboard is out of
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