How to Install a CD-ROM
Drive
Last updated: 5/16/00
PHYSICAL
INSTALLATION. Use care when installing any disk drive. I've
seen too many CD-ROM drives ruined by "gorillas." This
drive goes into a 5 1/4" drive bay in your computer. You may
need drive rails. Attach them first.
It is usually easier to plug the audio cable and flat IDE
cable into the drive before inserting the drive into the computer . The
flat, IDE cable is plugged into the drive with the red stripe towards the
power connector (the above picture is of a Toshiba
SDM 1221 DVD drive). It makes no difference which connector
of an IDE cable is connected to a drive and which one is connected to the
motherboard (it does make a difference with an ATA/66 cable). If you
have more than one drive to connect to the Secondary IDE connector and the
cable length is not long enough between the drives, try it the other way
around.
The audio cable is plugged-in with the red wire away from
the power connector. You may have a power supply cable that is long
enough to extend through the bay and past the front of the case. If
so, attach it next. Feed the wires followed by the drive into the bay. Take
your time and do not force the drive if it is a tight fit. Align the
drive and secure with the four screws provided. ( If
screws were not provided with the drive, be sure to use the correct kind. Most
CD-ROMs use the same sort of screws used to attach floppy drives). Do
not over-torque the screws. Remember, a CD-ROM is a precision instrument. Over-tightening
the screws may warp the drive frame and make the drive inoperative or sporadic. Recheck
the drive alignment with front of the case to assure a professional appearance. The
flat cable usually plugs into the motherboard's Secondary IDE interface with
the red stripe towards pin 1 and the audio cable goes to the CD-ROM Input
(or something like that) on your sound card with the red wire towards pin
1. Excess cable should be folded-up and secured with cable ties for a professional
appearance and to assure that the cables will not fall into a CPU fan, etc. Push
on all of the connectors before firing-up your computer to be sure they are
fully and properly seated.
CMOS SETUP. You may need to go into your CMOS
Setup and enable your the appropriate drive in the Standard Setup (Award
BIOS). Setting it to Auto works with most recent motherboards. You
may have to actually disable the drive if it is connected on the same cable
to a Zip drive, etc. Windows 9X and NT will usually still detect and
install the CD-ROM and make it usable.
WINDOWS INSTALLATION. The Windows Installation
of the 848E and many recent CD-ROM drives is simple and fast. The ATAPI
driver on the various flavors of the Windows
98 Startup Disk recognizes the drive and brings it up for a quick Win
98 installation on a new system. Windows 98 will also boot
directly from the Windows 98 CD if the BIOS is supports booting from a CD
and is configured to do so. During the Windows installation, Windows
98 will detect the drive and automatically install the appropriate
ATAPI driver. Other CD-ROMs may not be detected by Windows and may
require installation of a Windows or real mode drivers (see below) to operate. After
the Windows installation, one should go to Start>Settings>Control Panel>System>Device
Manager>+CDROM>
Select the CD-ROM drive>Properties>Settings and be sure the DMA checkbox
is checked for optimum performance of the drive. After installing 98,
you can install the drivers provided on the 948E floppy by F8ing at boot-up
to bring up the DOS prompt and typing a:install. With this procedure,
the CD-ROM is also available when booting directly to the DOS prompt. If
Windows is installed after installing the DOS (real mode) driver, it will remark-out
the mscdex line in the AUTOEXEC.BAT file and the drive will not work when booting
directly to DOS. That line should be unrem'd with an editor if you are
going to use the CD-ROM from DOS.
NOTES:
If you want to duplicate my benchmark tests, I copied the
files, less subdirectories, in the win98 directory on Windows 98 Upgrade
CD to my hard disk. If you find the benchmarks are noticeably slower
than mine and file transfers actually become slower as you increase the speed
of the CPU, chances are you have a scratched CD. If the CD-ROM drive
abnormally pauses and speeds-up during transfers between drives on Secondary
to Primary IDE interfaces, you probably have a scratched CD. CD error
correction is very robust and successful data transfer are still possible,
albeit slower, with quite a few small scratches.
If you get a CD that is stuck in the drive and the door
won't open, unfold a paper clip and insert it into the emergency eject option
hole, which is a tiny hole above the volume buttons and below the tray, three
times. Most CD-ROMs have this option. Many drives will open if
you insert the paperclip once and wait for the door to open. If you
force the door, you may break it or strip the gears.
Larry
Test Computer:
AMD 500 Mhz K6-2 processor, EpoX MVP3G2 motherboard, 1 MB cache', 64 MB,
8 ns PC100 memory, Western Digital 36400, 6.4 GB, 9.5 ms, 5,400 RPM ATA/33
hard disk with a 2 GB partition wand FAT32 file system (defragged), Windows
98 OEM, Diamond V770 AGP display adapter with 32 MBytes.
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