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Dux Computer Forums  |  Tech Discussions  |  Networking and the Internet (Moderator: Larry)  |  Topic: Wire Names??? « previous next »
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Author Topic: Wire Names???  (Read 55821 times)
NOS---
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« on: September 02, 2004, 04:48:26 pm »

well i want to wire my house with outlets for Cable, Phone, Cat5
now i cant seem to find what nuber - letter combo it is

Cate5=rj45
Cable=rj59
Phone=?Huh

will post more iinfo i am in a hurry tho so can u help
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Twinhead
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« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2004, 03:12:46 am »

Quote
Cate5=rj45
Cable=rj59
Phone=?Huh

Cat 3, 5, 5e, and 6 uses RJ45 plugs. (8P8C)
Cable (Here in europe, RG59 or standard 75 Ohm Coax) uses Coaxial plugs, Male in the Television set, Female in the wall socket. For Radio it is the other way round.
Phone uses Modulair flat wire with RJ12 plugs (6P4C), Pins [3 and 4], The middle two for connection.

Victor
« Last Edit: September 03, 2004, 03:15:27 am by Twinhead » Logged
NOS---
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« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2004, 09:45:48 pm »

O.K. Well after just surfing and reading ALOT of stuff i found that i want to wire my home with 5 plates each with Phone, Cable, Ethernet. i will run the wires down from from the attic and make the main ethernet box in the computer rooms closet.. ok i have the idea of how to do it but what i need to know is there a good site that carrys these supplies
 1000ft Ethernet cable
 500ft Coaxial cable
 500ft RJ12 or Modular Flat wire?

Now for the hardware
5x wall plates with the bos to mount them to
5x Phone, Cable, Ethernet plugs to go into the boxs
5x wall plates *white*
A good router( i have an 8 port hub)
A Crimper and all the caps i will need

more info to come..
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Larry
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« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2004, 08:42:49 am »

I would not use silver satin (flat, untwisted phone wire) for anything except, maybe, from the jack to the phone.  The American cable standards allow CAT 3 UTP for phones, but I’d use Cat 5e or CAT 6 for both the telephones and Ethernet. You can use RJ-45 jacks for both network and phones.  I still use CAT 5e because CAT 6 components are very expensive.  The jacks, etc. should match the cable rating.  

I don't run or home my TV cable with my Ethernet.  My TV cables go to a splitter in the basement near where the cable enters my house.  My network homes to my office/shop where my cable MODEM is located and where I can keep my eye on it.  An RG-6 cable runs from the MODEM to the outside of the house near where TV cable enters it.  A splitter/filter of some sort connects it to the main TV cable running to the telephone pole (the TV part of the cable then runs to another splitter for the TV sets inside the house).  The cable company installed all of it.  I don't need a TV cable connection at every outlet (in fact, they don’t run to outlets at all) and I run network and coax where I need it and when I need it.  It would probably be a different story if I were building a new house.

I would use RG-6 for CATV cable, especially if digital TV is planned.  I understand that digital TV is very fussy about the signal.  My cable TV company pretty much rewired my house (at no charge!) with RG-6 when they installed digital and cable Internet.  I believe the stuff they used was double shielded, etc.  However, I still have some RG-59 going to some TV locations. You will need a pretty expensive crimper for RG-6.

Although you can home the Ethernet cables directly to a router/hub/switch (a hub or switch can be used to expand a router), you may want to look into a wall-mounted, 12-port patch panel.  If you use a patch panel and ready-made patch cords, you won't need a crimper.  I would suggest a good 110 block, impact punch-down tool to install the patch panel and jacks.



MilesTek is a good place to buy network stuff.

Enough for now.  In your wonderings, did you see this:  
New Construction.  There is more.
« Last Edit: September 04, 2004, 08:43:40 am by Larry » Logged

NOS---
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« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2004, 11:52:50 am »

Soo.. what you are saying is if i buy 1000ft of cat 5 wire i can also use that for phone? would it be better if i can find out how much the phone stuff cost to install? ok and i dont think i want to use a punch block.. if i get a good router then run it to my hub that leave 2 open ports plus this is a pretty small home.. somewhere around 1000sft and if i have 5 wall plates all togeather i think i will be good
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« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2004, 07:02:04 pm »

>what you are saying is if i buy 1000ft of cat 5 wire i can also use that for phone?

CAT 5e (solid core, not stranded); CAT 5 is pretty much obsolete.
If you wire the jacks for the T568A color code, the color code will also be the same as most home phone wiring (T568B will also work electrically).  The 6P4C (six position, four contact) RJ-11 plug will use the four inner conductors of the RJ-45 8P8C jack and two of the 4 contacts are not usually used by US home phones.  The 100BASE-TX Ethernet uses pins 1, 2, 3, and 6.  The two wire phone/MODEM (if the plug is wired right), uses pins 4 and 5.

>would it be better if i can find out how much the phone stuff cost to install?

Installing phones can be tricky.  Be aware that not all phone installers know how to install network cable.  Now-a-days, telephones are usually home runned to a central location (usually near the house entry point (or within 15 meters of it and the grounding point by standard/code, as I recall), not daisy-chained from jack to jack.

Punching-down cables usually produces more reliable connections than home-made cables with plugs.  However, both methods can be used.  You may have to recrimp some cables.  Don't buy the cheapest crimper out there.

   
« Last Edit: September 04, 2004, 07:21:39 pm by Larry » Logged

NOS---
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« Reply #6 on: September 04, 2004, 09:01:39 pm »

O.K. wel i plan to do the Ethernet, cable by my self and have a guy from SBC come and run the phone wires

"Punching-down cables usually produces more reliable connections than home-made cables with plugs.  However, both methods can be used.  You may have to recrimp some cables.  Don't buy the cheapest crimper out there."

So you are saying i run all the ethernet cables to a punch block then to the hub that is better? i will use cat 5e sorry a typo
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« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2004, 05:28:19 pm »

Presently, my network plugs directly into a 7-port router.  I have built quite a few networks that way.  I have a couple of patch panels, which I plan to install, one for my shop and another for the house (to be installed in the basement).  The main reasons for doing it is I'll be having more outlets than I do ports and to provide more flexibility.  I also plan an article using them.

Most jacks and patch panels use 110 Insulation Displacement Contacts (IDC).  These contacts slice through the wire insulation and form a gas-tight connection.  An 110 impact tool is normally used to push the wire into the contacts.  However, there are jacks with IDC contacts that can be installed with pliers. I have done it both ways.



The process for preparing and seating one wire is a lot less complex and less error prone than arranging wires for a plug and crimping it.  Both the residential and commercial structured cable standards specify using the punch-down method for horizontal runs and patching with commercially made, stranded cable.  Jacks and patch panel require solid core wire.  Solid core wire is made to tighter transmission characteristics than stranded.  Stranded may also degrade over time.  When I run long cables directly to a router, etc., I use solid core wire and plugs designed for solid core wire.

In conclusion, both ways work.
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NOS---
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« Reply #8 on: September 07, 2004, 09:18:41 pm »

Can Someone clearafy how puch block work?
does it re-place hub?
do i plug the router into it?
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« Reply #9 on: September 08, 2004, 01:44:34 pm »

The ones I have let you punch down the cables on the back, and on the front give you an rj45 port. They dont do any kind of routing or switching, theyre just so you can connect patch cables.
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Larry
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« Reply #10 on: September 08, 2004, 02:25:29 pm »

For a larger networks and/or telephone systems you may have the wall jacks in workspaces connected by horizonatal cabling to a section of 110 punch-down blocks and cables going to equipment, such as patch panels, switches and hubs punched into another section of 110 punch-down blocks.  These blocks are usually mounted on 3/4" plywood along the wall of Telecommunications Rooms (called Wiring Closets in the old days and Telecommunications Closets in not so old old days), Equipment Room, and an Entrance Facility.  The two sections of blocks are then cross-connected.  From the second set of 110 blocks, cables may then be routed to relay racks with equipment in the room.  Or, the cables may go directly from workspace outlets to patch panels mounted in relay racks.

For network cables in a single family residence, one would use a patch panel(s) for this function.  Most patch panels have 110 IDC contacts on the back and RJ-45 jacks on the front.  One would run the network cables from the jacks in the house to the patch panel and punch them into the IDC contacts.  Short equipment patch cords are then used to patch the jacks that have PCs, etc. connected to router/switch/hub ports.  Again, a 3/4" piece of plywood is usually attached to the wall to mount the equipment.  However, there are now all-in-one boxes that handle telephone, sound, TV, intercom, burglar alarm, surveillance system, the kitchen sink, and network cables that can be mounted between studs.

Residential telephone wiring is usually handled entirely with punch-down blocks.  66 blocks and CAT 3 cable are still acceptable for this purpose; however, many new homes are being wired with 110 blocks, and use CAT 5e or 6 cable for both telephone and network cabling.  There is also a trend towards using CATegory UTP for audio and video, but it is not widespread in residential installations.

In my older house, I do things ad hoc and home to different places for various systems.  To redo the whole thing just so it looks pretty and obeys all the "rules" (which I do not entirely agree with anyway) seems too expensive and daunting.  When I win the mega-bucks I'll build a new house and (may) do things in a more organized way.  As it is, everything I have works fine and is easy to service.

See Larry's Bookshelf for References.
« Last Edit: September 08, 2004, 03:02:59 pm by Larry » Logged

NOS---
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« Reply #11 on: September 08, 2004, 03:53:16 pm »

Wow so if i get a 12 port puch block and a 12 hub each i plug into the hub so if i wire 5 wall jacks with ethernet i need to put the 5 into the puch block then plug into the hub

Internet---1 Port Router---12port hub---12 port puch block
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NOS---
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« Reply #12 on: September 08, 2004, 03:56:03 pm »

Opps sorry about 2 post but i found the phone box is about 5ft away from the ground steak and i wanna put the MAIN Cable spliter in the attic wich is about 20ft? now do i stil need to plug it into the grounding steak? also can you Please tell my how to insert a pic from my HDD So i can explain easyer
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« Reply #13 on: September 08, 2004, 04:03:37 pm »

Please take a little more time on your posts. "ground steak" is  hamburger...  What is a "MAIN Cable spliter?"

The image has to be on a web server.  Most people get a personal web server with their Internet account.  You post the link to the image, highlight it, and click image button in the Add YABBC tags:

Suggestion: don't rush this project, or you may be doing some of it over.
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NOS---
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« Reply #14 on: September 12, 2004, 05:33:34 pm »

WOW Man.. so many things that go into networking a home.. well i think i am se on when i want..

i have found a good site called www.lanshack.com
things i am gonna get:
Cable:500ft RG-6 Quad Shield=90.00$
1000ft CAT-5E or CaT-6=100$
500ft CAT-3 = 50$
Wall jacks:
5x Cable keystone inserts
5x CAT-5 -6 Keystone inserts
5x CAT-3 Key stone inserts
5x Lowvoltage boxs
Stuff:
100 CAT? 5-6 Caps and boots
100 Coxial "f" Caps
Cat 5 and 3 Crimper

i dunno what router i will get.. Well from what i herd you cannot do this:

Cable-Modem --- Hub ---- Computers

So i will do this:

Cable Modem -- 1 port router -- 8 port hub --- Comp

Now any recomendations for router?
Also.. what i ment was the Grounding Steak in the ground
Soo... any comments will help greatful
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little lamb, someone is always watching....
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